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Surrounded by water and nestling on the edge of Dartmoor made Buckfastleigh an ideal location for wool production. Early settlers were attracted by the moor, which provided good pasture for the sheep. The rivers Dart and Mardle and the Dean Burn, provided the abundance of water necessary for processing and dyeing the fleeces.
About five mills were in operation in the 16th century and two serge mills are recorded in 1850. together with 300 woolcombers. The peak of the Town’s industrial prosperity was reached in the late 19th century, when there were, at one time, five blanket, serge and combing mills, as well as corn and paper mills and a tannery. The same period saw a significant amount of building in the town, including modest worker’s cottages and public buildings.
Some of the original businesses still exist in the area and other mill buildings have been utilised for newer industries. The surviving section of the wooden millrace is still used to supply the tannery with water from the River Mardle and can be seen in Market Street.
‘..from blending to washing and weaving, spinning right through to the finished cloth. From the sheep’s back to the man’s back’ (Reminiscences from Townspeople)
The town plan is very interesting. Historically, there were four discrete elements: the Abbey, set within its own precincts on the west bank of the River Dart, the isolated 13th century parish church and Higher and Lower Town. Although there are similarities between Higher and Lower Town. they do show different characteristics. The core of Higher Town presents an almost unaltered 19th century townscape. In Lower Town. the buildings along Fore Street are mainly outwardly late 18th - early 19th century in date and character.
As recently as the mid 19th century, Higher and Lower Town were separate settlements. Both are centred on a single thoroughfare (Market Street and Fore Street). with buildings along the street frontages. and long, narrow burgage plots extending back from them. Subsequent development of the Town. particularly down these plots, has given rise to narrow alleyways at right angles to the main streets leading to courts behind. They show a variety of styles, shapes and sizes, and roof heights vary. all adding great visual interest to the area.
‘Higher towners and lower towners. The boys used to be in gangs against each other.. .always having scraps.
On the top of the hill stands the mined Parish Church. Built in the 13th Century (the spire being a later addition), it was destroyed by fire on the night of July 21st 1992. The tower and steeple remain, standing in splendid isolation, a prominent landmark for many miles around. The bells, originally from the Abbey. survived the fire and were re-hung so their sound can once again be heard across the valleys. From the lane which leads to the remains of Holy Trinity Church, there are magnificent views of Buckfast Abbey, Dartrnoor and the Dart Valley.
East of the church is the ruins of what might have been an ancient Chantry Chapel. The ruins of the original Chapel date back to 1640, but nothing is known of its history.
In the Churchyard, by the south door of the Church, is the mental-barred ‘penthouse’ tomb of the Cabells. once Lords of the Major of Buckfastleigh. Here lie Richard, his wife Susannah and their son, also Richard. In the caves which abound under the hill, there is a large stalagmite, which has formed directly under the tomb above. There was also a third Richard, a grandson. Which of these Richards was the one known as ‘Dirty Dick’, we are not sure.